Frost Eyeshadow for Darker Skin Tones with HallBrite BHB

In general, HallBrite® BHB provides a smooth, non-oily feel and wets pigments well, resulting in good color development. Low levels achieve good compression, yet good deposit, without glazing on application. And products have a creamy feel and smooth, even application. Pressed powder formulation is an empirical science, balancing application, color, effect, wear, and compression. Mica based pearl platelets are difficult to press, so the frost eyeshadow uses higher levels of Zinc Stearate (dry binder) and oils (wet binders). HallBrite® BHB is highly recommended because of its good wetting properties. Still, the frosted shade does not compact as well, resulting in a lower weight fill, even at the higher required pressure.

 
Sequence Trade Name INCI Name %
A   Talc 8.85
    Zinc Stearate 6.00
    Iron Oxides (black) (CI 77499), Triethoxycaprylylsilane 4.00
    Iron Oxides (red) (CI 77491), Triethoxycaprylylsilane 4.00
    Iron Oxides (yellow) (CI 77492), Triethoxycaprylylsilane 5.00
    Bismuth Oxychloride 1.00
    Kaolin 5.00
    Ascorbyl Palmitate 0.05
    Mica, Dimethicone 5.00
    Nylon-12 3.00
    Benzoic Acid 0.10
B   Mica, Iron Oxides, Titanium Dioxide 50.00
C HALLBRITE® BHB* Butyloctyl Salicylate 4.50
    Dimethicone 3.50

 

PREPARATIVE PROCEDURE

1 The manufacturing method will depend on available equipment.
2 Phase A is milled to disperse the pigments, usually with a hammer- or jet-mill.
3 Then, Phase B is added and mixed into batch.
4 Finally, Phase C is sprayed on and agitation continued until the batch is uniform.
5 Since this is a pearlescent product, the batch is not milled again.